Where We Be
Four Thousand Islands offers simple living
and a relaxing respite for the weary traveler
Si Phan Don, Laos
Stones weigh down the nets, allowing the fishermen to cast further.
We saw dozens of islanders casting their nets during our boat ride.
Around 4 pm we headed out on a private sunset cruise.
We liked watching local fishermen casting their nets.
We got out and walked along a tiny spit of land, reveling in
the peace and quiet and a terrific sunset over the water
At the far point of our journey we banked on a sandbar in the middle of the river
Boats puttered by as the day came to an end.
What a great two-hour trip for just $12.50 total.
A short boat ride brings you from the mainland to Don Det
Next day we went on a morning walk to take in the local sights
Eventually we reached Somphamit Falls, a local landmark on Don Khon. The
whitewater cascades through a narrow, impassable stretch of the Mekong.
Nearby is a sandy stretch of beach along the Mekong. Here you can
order a drink at Gone to the Beach Bar with its open-air bungalows.
On the way home we passed these "four-leafed clovers" growing in a shallow pond
This young boy zoomed past us on his motorbike -- with
his dad keeping a careful eye from the attached sidecar
At Fasai Happy Island Restaurant on Don Khon, we sat on
cushions at extra-low tables -- a common way to dine in Laos
This small monkey outside the restaurant seemed to like
French fries best but was willing to try an ice cube and some fruit
We finished our day on the verandah enjoying sunset views
Don Det wasn't as rowdy as we had been led to
believe. The vibe was laid-back and comfortable.
View of the arrival beach from the restaurant
Next morning we walked with our backpacks along this easy path towards the
bridge connecting the two islands. It's about a 20-minute walk to the bridge.
Not knowing much about water buffalo temperament, we
decided to skirt around this big one standing directly in our path!
Ahead you can see the concrete bridge connecting
the two islands. Don Khon island is to the left.
This view from the concrete bridge gives you a better
understanding of how the count of islands gets up to 4,000!
Don Khon is even more laid-back than Don Det
We opted for simple lodgings at Bounphan Guesthouse ($9 per night). We loved the water
views but found the lack of AC difficult under such hot conditions (March is a hot month in Laos).
These floating rentals next door to us went for about $60 per night.
Perhaps we should have splurged for the AC and a bit more luxury.
This local map shows the two main islands, Don Det
and Don Khon, which are connected by a bridge
We enjoyed watching this mom and her baby pause for a drink
We decided to stay put on Don Det for our first night. We slept
at Don Det Bungalows ($16) and awoke to this pretty view.
We paused for Lao iced coffees at a
restaurant overlooking the arrival beach
We passed this historic locomotive from the days of French colonial rule
Si Phan Don means Four Thousand Islands,
and while that might be a slight exaggeration
since most of the islands are little more than
bushy tufts, it's still a pretty place that lets you
park yourself right in the middle of the Mekong
River. Called the “hammock capital of Laos” for
its laid-back vibe, it's located in southern Laos
near the border with Cambodia. The two most
touristed islands are Don Det and Don Khon,
which are connected by a bridge. From Don
Det the bungalows get sunrise views over the
Mekong, and from Don Khon sunset views.

Our favorite experience was a private sunset
boat ride. We paid 100,000 kip total ($12.50) for
the two-hour trip. Straight off we enjoyed the
cooling breezes as we motored along. The
scenery was pleasant -- lots of little islets of
greenery in the Mekong -- and it was especially
fun to watch the local fishermen casting their
nets. At the far point we banked on a sandbar
and clambered out to watch a glorious sunset.