Where We Be
|Mulegé's town square is blessed in February with these two incredibly flower-laden
bougainvilleas. Relax on a bench under one of them and feel your cares drain away.
Mulegé (pronounced "moo-lay-HAY") is a small
oasis in the Baja desert that offers a quiet base
from which to explore the glorious beaches of
Conception Bay just to the south. We stayed
four nights at Casa Granada B&B on the estuary
that leads into the Sea of Cortez. A ten minute
drive away is photogenic Santa Rosalia Mission,
which sits on a hill overlooking the town with its
abundant palms and the Mulegé River -- one of
only two real rivers in all of Baja California.
Sometimes called Heroica Mulegé because its
people resisted the incursions of Americans
during the Mexican-American War (1846-48), the
town was never occupied. The Baja Peninsula
might feel a whole lot different if they hadn't
resisted. The town continues in its heroic ways:
it has been hit by five hurricanes in the past ten
years but is resilient and keeps bouncing back.
|The drive to Mulegé passes through harsh desert --
so it's a relief to arrive at the oasis town
|We stayed at peaceful Casa Granada B&B on the
estuary, a short drive away from the town center
|We recommend Room #3 on the 2nd floor with its view of the estuary. If no one is in the adjoining room, you'll have
the sitting room all to yourself. We enjoyed our first Baja wine here -- F. Chauvenet, a tasty malbec-cabernet blend.
|We walked along the estuary to where it joins the Sea of
Cortez, enjoying the abundant birdlife and lighthouse views
|Mission Santa Rosalia is the second oldest
California mission (founded in 1705)
|The lookout point offers a great view of Mission Santa Rosalia itself. Between
the photogenic mission and the peaceful surroundings, it's a worthwhile stop.
|The stone sanctuary has weathered numerous hurricanes and
earthquakes, perhaps thanks to Santa Rosalia's intercession
|Beyond all the palm trees is Mulegé as seen from the lookout
point at Mission Santa Rosalia on the outskirts of town
|In the other direction you can see the Mulegé River winding its way towards the
Sea of Cortez. It's one of only two permanent rivers on the Baja Peninsula.
|The town is officially designated as "Heroica Mulegé" because it resisted occupation during
the Mexican-American War. The grand entrance gate belies the small size of the town within.
|Mulegé's old prison was built without bars. Its prisoners were permitted to walk around town freely as long as
they returned to prison each evening. The harsh surrounding desert apparently made escape attempts rare.
|There's a fine view of Mulegé from
outside the prison, which sits atop a hill
|We enjoyed our relaxed stay in Mulegé -- and it makes a great base
for exploring the beaches of Conception Bay just to the south
|We enjoyed some delicious meals in town at places like El Candil
with its relaxed patio and tasty fettucine alfredo with shrimp
|Los Equipales offers up tasty margaritas
and fresh-made guacamole with chips
|Also don't miss out on Tacos El Paisano in Santa Rosalia to the north, right
along Hwy 1. Their carne asada, chorizo, and al pastor tacos are fantastic.