Where We Be
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| Add Vilnius to the list of European cities that surprise on the upside |
| Vilnius, Lithuania |
Vilnius's Old Town is compact and approachable
and easy to see in a day or two. It feels more like
a town than a capital city, and we mean that in
the nicest possible way. Its cobbled streets
invite you to stroll along past historic homes
and a seemingly endless array of churches. Key
sights string together easily: the Gates of Dawn,
the Bastion, Poetry Street, Cathedral Square,
Gediminas Tower. And if you need a break from
sightseeing, any number of flower-filled cafes
beckon you to pause for a drink or a bite to eat.
The self-declared “Republic of Uzupis” is an
especially fun artists' enclave within Old Town. It
boasts its own constitution and is filled with
quirky street art and amusing statues like the
Uzupis Cat. The constitution has some strange
rights, like #13: “A cat is not obliged to love its
owners,” and #8: “Everyone has the right to be
undistinguished and unknown.” It's posted in
multiple languages on plaques along a town wall.
and easy to see in a day or two. It feels more like
a town than a capital city, and we mean that in
the nicest possible way. Its cobbled streets
invite you to stroll along past historic homes
and a seemingly endless array of churches. Key
sights string together easily: the Gates of Dawn,
the Bastion, Poetry Street, Cathedral Square,
Gediminas Tower. And if you need a break from
sightseeing, any number of flower-filled cafes
beckon you to pause for a drink or a bite to eat.
The self-declared “Republic of Uzupis” is an
especially fun artists' enclave within Old Town. It
boasts its own constitution and is filled with
quirky street art and amusing statues like the
Uzupis Cat. The constitution has some strange
rights, like #13: “A cat is not obliged to love its
owners,” and #8: “Everyone has the right to be
undistinguished and unknown.” It's posted in
multiple languages on plaques along a town wall.
| The horseshoe-shaped Bastion of Vilnius is the last remnant of the city’s defensive wall |
| The wall once formed a closed circle – almost 1½ miles in perimeter – around the entire city |
| So many churches! Here's another one -- the Church of St. Paraskeva, which makes for a pretty sight as you continue north through Old Town. |
| Huge Cathedral Square is dominated by Vilnius Cathedral and a photogenic clock tower |
| Cathedral facade and clock tower from another angle |
| Just inside the doors of the cathedral is this lovely mural |
| Sitting atop a green hill beyond the cathedral is Gediminas Castle Tower -- the rebuilt remnant of what was once a full-on castle |
| Poetry Street (Literatu Gatve) is decorated with numerous plaques honoring Lithuanian writers |
| The street is popular with tourists despite the fact that, to be honest, we can't name a single Lithuanian author |
| The facade of the Church of St. Casimir looks dramatically different depending on the lighting and time of day (note: the church's dome, visible from our room, isn't visible from ground level) |
| View of the Church of St. Casimir from our fourth-floor window at Domus Maria |
| At Medininkai Restaurant, known for its traditional Lithuanian food, we sample fried breadsticks, cold beetroot soup (the pink one), and warm broccoli-leek soup (the green one). One of our most colorful meals ever! |
| The spire of St. Nicholas Church stands tall above the street |
| Heading south towards Uzupis and home, you'll arrive first at St. Anne’s Church, a reddish-pink confection of a Gothic church full of steeples |
| Cross one of several bridges across the winding river and find yourself in the self-proclaimed "Republic of Uzupis" |
| The Uzupis Cat is one of our favorites |
| You never know what you might find here -- an angel blowing a horn, a pig on wheels, a mermaid, who knows? |
| The Constitution of the Republic of Uzupis makes for some interesting reading. Pick your favorite, or your least favorite -- it's all part of the fun. |
| The Constitution of Uzupis is engraved in 43 languages all told -- so you can read it no matter where you're from |
| Theotokos Cathedral, just across the river from Uzupis, can also be seen from the Bastion of Vilnius |
| Vilnia River makes a sort of "U-turn" around Uzupis, helping to preserve its eccentric identity |
| Domus Maria Hotel makes for a great base -- it's a 400-year-old monastery converted into a comfy hotel |
| Just outside Domus Maria (and near the Gate of Dawn) is this elegant stretch of street heading into Old Town |
| In the other direction is the Gate of Dawn itself (Aušros Vartų), entryway to Old Town. It has a chapel with sacred icon above the arch. |
| Step through the gate and you're outside Old Town and into the more modern part of Vilnius. Of the ten original city wall gates, this is the only one remaining. |
| The Church of St. Theresa stands close to Domus Maria Hotel (out of view to the left). Further in the distance is the Gate of Dawn. |
| The Lithuanian National Philharmonic Hall makes a strong first impression as you stroll through Old Town |
| We put together this walking tour map that hits most of the highlights of Vilnius |
| Of course, half the fun of Vilnius is just wandering around and stumbling upon lovely spots like this |
| St. Nicholas is the oldest surviving church in Lithuania (1387) |
| Goddess of justice holding a lantern |
| In the distance is Three Crosses Monument, a prominent landmark |
| This artists' enclave is filled with all sorts of eye-catching art |
| It's said if you stare too long into the eyes of the Mermaid of Uzupis, you might never leave |
| Two high chairs in the river -- why not? |
