Where We Be
Perito Moreno Glacier is second only to Iguazu Falls on the must-see list of Argentine natural wonders
Perito Moreno Glacier is the most impressive
glacier we've ever seen – not because it's the
largest in the world but because it's the most
active. Unlike most glaciers these days, it's still
advancing, so it calves huge pieces of itself into
the lake below on a frequent basis. The huge
glacier is located only an hour-and-a-half from the
tourist town of El Calafate, which means it's easy
to visit once you get down to southern Patagonia.

Extensive catwalks and platforms have been built
to let you see the glacier from different angles and
various heights. Sometimes you're lucky enough
to be looking in the right direction and can see it
calving before the sound reaches you. Otherwise,
you hear a loud “boom!” or staccato gunshot and
catch the splash as the ice falls into the water.

We loved hearing the ice crack as if the whole
glacier were being split down the seam. The
spires of ice at the forefront were all ajumble at
impossible angles; some looked as if they simply
had to fall in at any moment. Huge fissures were
colored the most wonderful turquoise blue. The
immensity of the glacier only became apparent
when we saw a boat approaching its face and it
looked toy-sized.
I happened to have my camera pointed in the right direction when a chunk of the glacier calved into the lake
Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina
Our first view of Perito Moreno Glacier from a distant overlook in the early morning
Wilderness of ice as seen from above before descending onto the catwalks
The catamaran looks toy-sized next to the face of the glacier
Waiting and watching for the next big spire of ice to fall
View to the right, with icebergs floating in the lake
View to the left, with fall foliage in the foreground
We put on every layer of clothing we had for this five-hour day out in the cold -- and needed it!