Where We Be
| Looking down on the stone village of Marpha, famous for its apple pie and apple brandy |
| Colorful prayer wheel |
| Around 11 am each day the Kali Gandaki Valley becomes a giant wind tunnel, kicking up huge amounts of blowing dust |
| One of many temples in Muktinath, the holiest pilgrimage site in the Himalayas |
| Even the simplest bell at the temple complex has lovely colors and textures |
| Small statue of a Hindu god set in a niche in Muktinath's entry gate |
| 108 water spouts (a sacred number) in the shape of cows' heads pour forth holy water |
| The sacred waters here are said to bring healing and purification |
| Robin makes a barefoot circuit of the water spouts |
| We hiked through barren countryside to the oasis town of Kagbeni (hidden in the folds of a deep valley up ahead) |
| Surreal view from our Kagbeni lodge: bright green rice fields abruptly ending at a gray windswept floodplain, with snow-capped mountains in the distance |
| Compared to its surroundings, Kagbeni seems impossibly green in its narrow valley |
| This weaver worked outdoors on her loom in Khingar, selling hand-woven goods to passers-by like us |
| Yak-Donald's offers a wry take on the double arches |
| We pass a large herd of goats on our way to Marpha. Ahead of us is a female Buddhist nun (with shaved head) on a 10-day vacation to visit family in Jomsom. |
| Dirt road (flat!) on the outskirts of Marpha |
| Looking down on the roofs of Marpha, held in place from the fierce winds by endless stacks of firewood |
| Neeru Guest House with its pleasant courtyard was our home for two nights |
| Firewood piled high atop a roof |
| Marpha's whitewashed stone houses and narrow streets are picturesque |
| Patchwork of green and brown squares in Marpha's rice fields |
| During our rest day we hiked up to the abandoned town of Old Marpha, past dramatic scenery |
| The apple orchards on this high plateau make Marpha, in its own words, the "Delightful Apple Capital of Nepal" |
| An incense burner sends up wisps of fragrant smoke |
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| Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (Days 13-16) |
This is the part of the Annapurna Circuit many
people skip these days. A dirt road stretches
from Muktinath -- the first town you arrive at
after crossing Thorung-La Pass -- to the end of
the circuit. That's enough to dissuade most
trekkers, since who wants to trudge along a
dusty road while getting passed by jeeps and
buses? That said, there's still good scenery to
be had, and quaint villages along the way --
and, ironically, less tourists. So if you have the
time and you like to complete things like we do,
then why not finish the circuit on foot?
After crossing the pass we took a desperately
needed rest day in Muktinath. It's considered
the holiest site in the Himalayas by Hindus and
Buddhists alike, who often walk long distances
to visit here. The two holiest sites are a sacred
pool with 108 brass water spouts shaped like
cows' heads and a perpetually burning flame of
natural gas. This merging of fire, water, and
earth is what makes the site holy.
It would be a shame to miss out on the towns of
Kagbeni and Marpha, located two hours and six
hours south of Muktinath on foot, respectively.
Both towns offer cozy lodges and some of the
freshest apple pie and cider you'll ever taste.
people skip these days. A dirt road stretches
from Muktinath -- the first town you arrive at
after crossing Thorung-La Pass -- to the end of
the circuit. That's enough to dissuade most
trekkers, since who wants to trudge along a
dusty road while getting passed by jeeps and
buses? That said, there's still good scenery to
be had, and quaint villages along the way --
and, ironically, less tourists. So if you have the
time and you like to complete things like we do,
then why not finish the circuit on foot?
After crossing the pass we took a desperately
needed rest day in Muktinath. It's considered
the holiest site in the Himalayas by Hindus and
Buddhists alike, who often walk long distances
to visit here. The two holiest sites are a sacred
pool with 108 brass water spouts shaped like
cows' heads and a perpetually burning flame of
natural gas. This merging of fire, water, and
earth is what makes the site holy.
It would be a shame to miss out on the towns of
Kagbeni and Marpha, located two hours and six
hours south of Muktinath on foot, respectively.
Both towns offer cozy lodges and some of the
freshest apple pie and cider you'll ever taste.
| Day 13. Rest Day in Muktinath |
| Day 14. Muktinath to Kagbeni |
| Day 15. Kagbeni to Marpha |
| Day 16. Rest Day in Marpha |
| Looking back at Muktinath at the start of Day 14 |
