Where We Be
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| Si Phan Don -- Four Thousand Islands -- offers simple living and a relaxing respite |
| Si Phan Don, Laos |
| Stones weigh down the nets, allowing the fishermen to cast further |
| Around 4 pm we headed out on a private sunset cruise. We liked watching local fishermen casting their nets. |
| We got out and walked along a tiny spit of land |
| At the far point of our journey, we banked on a sandbar in the middle of the river |
| Boats puttered by as the day came to an end. What a great two-hour trip for just $12.50 total. |
| A short boat ride brings you from the mainland to Don Det |
| Next day we went on a morning walk to take in the local sights |
| Eventually we reached Somphamit Falls, a local landmark on Don Khon. The whitewater cascades through a narrow, impassable stretch of the Mekong. |
| Nearby is a sandy stretch of beach along the Mekong. Here you can order a drink at Gone to the Beach Bar with its open-air bungalows. |
| On the way home we passed these "four-leafed clovers" growing in a shallow pond |
| This young boy zoomed past us on his motorbike -- with his dad keeping a careful eye from the attached sidecar |
| At Fasai Happy Island Restaurant on Don Khon, we sat on cushions at extra-low tables -- a common way to dine in Laos |
| This small monkey outside the restaurant seemed to like French fries best but was willing to try an ice cube and some fruit |
| We finished our day on the verandah enjoying sunset views |
| Don Det wasn't as rowdy as we had been led to believe. The vibe was laid-back and comfortable. |
| View of the arrival beach from the restaurant |
| Next morning we walked with our backpacks along this easy path for about 20 minutes towards the bridge connecting the two islands |
| Not knowing much about water buffalo temperament, we decided to skirt around this big fella standing directly in our path |
| Ahead you can see the concrete bridge connecting the two islands. Don Khon island is to the left. |
| This view from the concrete bridge gives you a better understanding of how the count of islands gets up to 4,000! |
| Don Khon is even more laid-back than Don Det |
| We opted for simple lodgings at Bounphan Guesthouse ($9 per night). We loved the water views but found the lack of AC difficult under such hot conditions (March is a hot month in Laos). |
| These floating rentals next door went for about $60 per night. Perhaps we should have splurged for the AC and a bit more luxury. |
| This local map shows the two main islands, Don Det and Don Khon, which are connected by a bridge |
| We enjoyed watching this mom with her baby pause for a drink |
| We decided to stay put on Don Det for our first night. We slept at Don Det Bungalows ($16) and awoke to this pretty view. |
| We paused for Lao iced coffees at a restaurant overlooking the arrival beach |
| We passed this historic locomotive from the days of French colonial rule |
Si Phan Don means Four Thousand Islands,
and while that might be a slight exaggeration
since most of the islands are little more than
bushy tufts, it's still a pretty place that lets you
park yourself right in the middle of the Mekong
River. Called the “hammock capital of Laos” for
its laid-back vibe, it's located in southern Laos
near the border with Cambodia. The two most
touristed islands are Don Det and Don Khon,
which are connected by a bridge. From Don
Det the bungalows get sunrise views over the
Mekong, and from Don Khon sunset views.
Our favorite experience was a private sunset
boat ride. We paid 100,000 kip total ($12.50) for
the two-hour trip. Straight off we enjoyed the
cooling breezes as we motored along. The
scenery was pleasant -- lots of little islets of
greenery in the Mekong -- and it was especially
fun to watch the local fishermen casting their
nets. At the far point we banked on a sandbar
and clambered out to watch a glorious sunset.
and while that might be a slight exaggeration
since most of the islands are little more than
bushy tufts, it's still a pretty place that lets you
park yourself right in the middle of the Mekong
River. Called the “hammock capital of Laos” for
its laid-back vibe, it's located in southern Laos
near the border with Cambodia. The two most
touristed islands are Don Det and Don Khon,
which are connected by a bridge. From Don
Det the bungalows get sunrise views over the
Mekong, and from Don Khon sunset views.
Our favorite experience was a private sunset
boat ride. We paid 100,000 kip total ($12.50) for
the two-hour trip. Straight off we enjoyed the
cooling breezes as we motored along. The
scenery was pleasant -- lots of little islets of
greenery in the Mekong -- and it was especially
fun to watch the local fishermen casting their
nets. At the far point we banked on a sandbar
and clambered out to watch a glorious sunset.
