Where We Be
This view of Wineglass Bay in Freycinet National
Park is perhaps the most famous in Tasmania
Road Trip: Eastern Tasmania
After three days in Tasmania's capital we picked
up our car rental and began our explorations of
greater Tasmania. We had an ambitious loop
trip planned that would let us see as much of
the island as possible in just one week (see
map below). The first three days were devoted
to exploring Tasmania's eastern half.

Day 1. Port Arthur. Port Arthur is located on the
Tasman Peninsula about an hour's drive from
Hobart. Australia got its start as a penal colony,
and Port Arthur Historic Site is considered the
best preserved convict site in the country. We
spent our first day learning about its history.

Day 2. Tasman Peninsula. Besides being a
former penal colony the Tasman Peninsula is
also quite beautiful. We spent our second day
appreciating its natural wonders before driving
up to Coles Bay in time for a sunset beach walk.

Day 3. Freycinet National Park. Just south of
Coles Bay on a small peninsula is Freycinet NP,
best known for views of Wineglass Bay (left).
We explored the park in the morning before
driving two hours to Launceston, Tasmania's
second largest city, in north-central Tasmania.
This is Sleepy Bay Beach from above. It's pretty but in
hindsight we wish we'd hiked down to Wineglass Bay instead.
Next morning we began exploring the scenic points of interest on the Tasman Peninsula.
First up was Pirates Bay, home to fairy penguins (although we didn't see any on our visit).
Tasman Arch is especially impressive -- much bigger than we were
expecting. Note the people atop the arch to get a sense of perspective.
Right next door to Tasman Arch and walkable
from it is the Devil’s Kitchen, a collapsed arch
Just north of Eaglehawk Neck is Tessellated Pavement State Reserve,
which features a natural phenomenon that looks man-made
Rectangular shapes are "carved" into the flat
rocks at sea level. Nature never ceases to amaze!
The arrow points at Eaglehawk Neck. This was the site of the infamous Dog Line, a line of ferocious dogs
that kept escaped convicts of the Tasman Peninsula hemmed in. We toured the officers' quarters here.
The red lichen-covered boulders adjacent to Redbill Beach were our favorite sight here
With 3 hours of driving still ahead of us, we left the Tasman Peninsula behind and headed north
towards Coles Bay. We detoured slightly from our route to visit Redbill Beach near Bicheno.
Our home for the night was Big4 Iluka at Coles Bay. We arrived
around 5 pm and had time after dinner for an evening walk.
Muirs Beach on Coles Bay is a beautiful stretch of crescent beach
offering views of a small range of mountains known as The Hazards
We walked a mile out and a mile back and got to watch
the sun set into the ocean and turn The Hazards red
We arrived at Port Arthur Historic Site just in time for a 40-minute guided introductory tour.
Standard entry fee (including tour and 25-minute boat ride) was 40 AUD (~$28 US) each.
After the guided tour we were free to walk around
on our own. Behind Robin is the main Penitentiary.
Above the penitentiary was the Commandant's home (the yellow house)
The Penitentiary was originally constructed as a flour mill and granary in
1843. Eventually it housed hundreds of convicts, primarily in dormitories.
The interior of the Commandant's home is furnished with period pieces
In fact there was a serious disconnect between hearing about the hard life of the convicts
and seeing the beautiful place Port Arthur has become with its gardens and wide lawns
During the cruise we saw the Isle of the Dead (where both officers and convicts are
buried) and Point Puer Boy’s Prison (the first juvenile prison in the British Empire)
Back on dry land we visited the Convict Church. We got the sense that if a prisoner
behaved, he could "graduate" from the system with a trade and a chance at a new life.
For those convicts who didn't toe the line there was always the much-feared
Separate Prison where solitary confinement and harsh physical labor were the norm
After about 3 hours of touring we drove to the town of Nubeena 15 minutes away.
We pulled into Parsons Bay Retreat in time to enjoy happy hour on the porch.
Next we made our way to the dock and headed out on a short 30-minute cruise
Day 1. Port Arthur
Day 2. Tasman Peninsula
The views of the former penal colony from the water were lovely
Day 3. Freycinet National Park
We took a different tack and skipped the hike down, opting instead to explore the rest
of Freycinet National Park. This cute little crescent beach is called Honeymoon Bay.
A short walk from Honeymoon Bay brought us to this pretty spot
Cape Tourville is another scenic attraction in the park. The short drive to
get here is really worthwhile as the walk offers fantastic coastal views from above.
There's a lighthouse to see, and the walking is easy along a wooden
boardwalk. This is also a great place for whale sightings in season.
We finished up at Sleepy Bay. The hike here took about 30 minutes and
brought us to these huge boulders perched at the edge of a gravelly beach.
Next morning we drove 15 minutes to Freycinet National Park. We paid the 60 AUD (~$42 US) vehicle entry fee for
unlimited visits to national parks in Tasmania. The pass lasts for up to two months although we only needed it for a week.
From the Wineglass Bay parking area we hiked steeply uphill
for half an hour for the chance to see Wineglass Bay from above
You can hike down to the beach from here, which adds an hour minimum
to the hike (plus beach walk time). An extended loop hike is also possible.
Your reward for all the hard work is a spectacular
view of the perfect crescent of Wineglass Bay
Our Tasmania road trip was fun but admittedly fairly ambitious for one week.
Ten days would have allowed for an occasional two-night stay along the way.
We still had 2½ hours of driving ahead of us after finishing our touring. We arrived at Riverside
Hotel just north of Launceston around 5 pm. A rest day about now might have been a good idea!
The rugged coastline just south of
Pirates Bay is a feast for the eyes
We're glad we built in time to explore the scenery near Eaglehawk Neck
(the narrow isthmus that joins the Tasman Peninsula to Tasmania)