Where We Be
Lady Elliot Island is located right on the Great Barrier Reef.
It's a scenic 40-minute flight from the mainland to get here.
Lady Elliot Island -- Great Barrier Reef
Our visit to Lady Elliot Island was one of the
highlights of our trip to Australia. The Great
Barrier Reef has long been on our bucket list,
as it is for so many others, and there are few
places better situated to see it at its best than
Lady Elliot Island. Located at the southernmost
end of the Great Barrier Reef, this tiny island
has been less affected by global warming than
some other parts of the reef further north. It's a
haven for manta rays, sea turtles, fish, and sea
birds. You can even see dolphins and whales
here if you come in season (e.g. July & August).
Can you imagine going for a snorkel and seeing
a whale underwater and hearing it sing?

Well, we weren't quite that lucky in our timing,
but we did see turtles, rays, and fish aplenty --
and even an octopus in the shallow lagoon. We
snorkeled several times each day during our
three days on the island and took advantage of
all it had to offer, including a glass-bottom boat
tour, guided snorkel, and land-based activities
like a nocturnal animals tour. Lady Elliot Island
was the splurge of our Australia trip, costing
$550 per couple per night if you factor in airfare
(you can't get there by boat). But for a once in a
lifetime experience it was worth it to snorkel
the Great Barrier Reef straight off the beach.
Since we don't have an underwater camera we've added a few photos from the Lady Elliot website
showing some of the amazing sights you can see -- intact and colorful coral gardens, loads of sea
turtles and rays, the occasional reef or nurse shark, and fish galore. We even saw an octopus!
Our starting point was the town of Hervey Bay, a 3½ hour drive north of Brisbane.
Round-trip airfare cost us ~$250 each. By plane is the only way to reach Lady Elliot.
As we took off we could see Hervey Bay spread out below us.
The town's super-long pier juts out into the ocean at top right.
Getting to see the Great Barrier Reef from above is a real treat --
and landing on a grass airstrip is a fun adventure in its own right
Our first activity after orientation was the included glass-bottom
boat and snorkel tour. This started from the Lighthouse area.
We snorkeled numerous times over the next few days. A fun one is the drift snorkel from
Lighthouse Bommie (above) to Coral Gardens (to the right) some 30 minutes away.
From the boat we saw a stingray and a loggerhead turtle --
then we dove into the water for our first snorkel
Looking back we could see people getting ready to snorkel independently. That
white sign marks a fin changing station where you can put your snorkel fins on.
During our visit in April the island was crowded with fledgling white-capped noddies. You could see
them roosting in every branch of every tree -- which is a bit surprising since they have webbed feet!
So many birds all at once can be both noisy and smelly, so if that's not your thing then you
may want to plan your visit for a different month. If we had it to do over again we'd pick July
or August (Australia's winter) when there are more whales and manta rays -- and less birds.
So let's get oriented. The eco-resort itself is near the Lagoon. The airstrip bisects the island and the path
perpendicular to it leads to the Lighthouse and sunset views. There are three different snorkeling areas
to explore: the Lagoon on the east side and Lighthouse Bommies and Coral Gardens on the west side.
The Reef Education Centre offers a great way
to learn more about the Reef's flora and fauna
A highlight of each day was happy hour at sunset
on the west side of the island near the lighthouse
The sunsets can be pretty spectacular
The island itself is small -- you can walk around it in about an hour.
It's landscaped with palm trees and well-marked walking paths.
After each snorkel we returned to our private Eco-Cabin to regroup. (We were the only two occupants
despite the bunks for four). The Eco-Cabin with shared bath is the most affordable option available on
Lady Elliot at ~$300 US per night (for two) including breakfast and dinner. We found it quite comfortable.
After sunset it was time for dinner -- and just about everyone was starving after
a full day of snorkeling or diving. We thought the food and selection were great.
There was plenty of seating and lots of comfortable spots to relax
Other than cone shells Lady Elliot is pretty safe and pleasant. One
nice benefit: there are no stingers (jellyfish) to worry about here.
The shallow Lagoon is straight ahead. You can't
get much closer to amazing snorkeling than this!
On the Island Discovery Tour we learned that octopus trees spread via
sea water and are the first to colonize a new coral cay. To deal with all
the salt a "sacrificial leaf" is "chosen." That leaf soon yellows and dies.
As we departed we got one final view of the
island. We would certainly love to come back.
We made it all the way to the end. Some days you can see rays or dolphins from here.
Hervey Bay
Our namesake Charlton Esplanade stretches for some 10 miles (16 km)
along the beach at Hervey Bay and makes for great walking or biking
A rest day was welcome after all that exhausting fun at Lady Elliot, but we
still mixed in a little sightseeing at Hervey Bay. That's Urangan Pier up ahead.
The pier is about half a mile long!
The owners at Emeraldene Inn gave us a good tip: they said if we wanted to see kangaroo we should
visit Fraser Coast Anglican College near sunset. Lo and behold, there they were, about twenty of
them feeding on the lush grass of the soccer pitch. Our first kangaroo sighting in Australia!
On the drive back to the inn we saw even more kangaroo in a nearby field. What with seeing
the Great Barrier Reef AND kangaroo, it really feels like we've been to Australia now!
We bracketed our Lady Elliot adventure with a stay at both ends at Emeraldene
Inn in Hervey Bay. We loved the tropical setting and comfortable digs.
Touchdown!
Each day the Activities Board shows when you can
snorkel in the Lagoon (2 hours either side of high tide)
Don't miss the Lagoon which offers some of the best snorkeling you'll ever experience. This is where we saw our octopus
and a sea turtle being cleaned by other fish. You'll have to time your visit with high tide -- otherwise it's too shallow to swim.
Coral Gardens was one of our favorite areas --
lots of "bommies" (coral outcrops) to swim around
Not my photo
Not my photo
Not my photo
[Not my photos]
Muttonbirds (aka wedge-tailed shearwaters) also mate in April and make the eeriest mating call. It was like a maternity
ward full of babies wailing from beneath our cabin at night! Click
here for a sample (starting around the 10-second mark).
You must wear water shoes at Lady Elliot (free ones are provided) because
if you step on a cone shell you can get stung with a venomous barb with
no antidote that's extremely painful and can even be fatal -- yikes!
Fish feeding is just one of the
many included daily activities
Not my photo
Not my photo
We saw loads of people fishing off the pier
The view of the beach isn't half bad either