Where We Be
This bas-relief of St. John of Nepomuk on the bridge has been rubbed bright
by thousands (millions?) of hands. Touching it is said to bring good luck.
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Nepomuk was tossed from this very bridge for
refusing to divulge secrets of the confessional
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In the Jewish Quarter (aka Josefov), you can pay a visit to the Old Jewish
Cemetery with its wildly tilted stones, located right next to Ceremonial Hall
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A statue dedicated to Kafka stands just outside the Spanish Synagogue
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A lovely row of art nouveau buildings fronts the riverside
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The Dancing House (Tancící dum), by Frank Gehry, is one of
Prague's most outstanding modern architectural creations
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If you walk far enough south, you'll eventually reach Vysehrad, a hilltop fortress
ruin with a basilica on top. From here you get pleasant views of Prague.
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Door to the Basilica of St. Peter & St. Paul at Vysehrad
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Let's start at night because the city is perhaps at its most magical then -- including
Prague Castle, which is said to have been an inspiration for Disney's Cinderella Castle
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We stayed at Hotel Leonardo (the yellow building above) on the east side --
only a block from the Vltava River and a short walk to Old Town Square
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When the Clock Tower strikes the hour, hordes of tourists gather to witness
the twelve Apostles circling past two windows while a skeleton rings a bell
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Venturing south along the Vltava River on a summer's day,
you'll see plenty of paddle boats in various shapes and forms
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Decadent chimney cakes are a famous Prague treat
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The Mala Strana, aka Little Quarter, is a picturesque place to stroll west of the Vltava River
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Time to explore the sights west of the Vltava River. A good place
to start is Charles Bridge, with its imposing towers at either end.
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Finish up your day with some al fresco dining, one of the true pleasures of Europe in summer
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Tyn Church, a 15th-century Baroque church
with twin spires, rises high above the square
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The pedestrian-only square is expansive enough that it rarely feels crowded
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This was our view as we sipped wine on the main square --
and this was the moment we fell totally in love with Prague
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Old Town Square, the epicenter of Prague, is the
perfect place to enjoy a late-night dinner or drink
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Our late-evening visit to the square (after 9 pm) turned out to be
one of the highlights of our whole trip to Eastern Europe
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There are plenty of fun shops to enjoy in Prague -- like this one wholly dedicated to rubber ducks
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By sheer chance our friends Michael & Lauren happened to be in Prague at the same time we were, so on
our last day we got together for an early dinner at U Tri Jelinku and some touring around town. What fun!
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Prague Castle as seen from across the Vltava River
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"Prague is magical." For years we've heard this
from fellow travelers, and now we know it to be
true. Especially at night, when the buildings are
all lit up, there's nothing quite like enjoying a
wine or a Pilsner Urquell (a local favorite) on the
expansive Old Town Square and soaking up the
atmosphere. If you do nothing else during your
time in Prague, do this and you won't regret it.
In three days of touring here, we walked some
28 miles, exploring every nook and cranny of
the city. (Next time we'll purchase a transit
pass!) Prague Castle and the Mala Strana (aka
Little Quarter) are situated to the west of the
Vltava River, and most of the other key sights
are to the east -- including Old Town Square
with its Astronomical Clock, the Jewish Quarter,
and Wenceslas Square in what's amusingly
known as New Town (Nove Mesto) despite
having been founded in 1348. The pedestrian-
only Charles Bridge crosses the river and is a
sight in its own right with its numerous statues.
Follow along with us now as we take you on an
armchair travel tour of the wonders of Prague.
Not every building on the east side is famous, but wander
almost any street in Old Town and you'll find beauty
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Like this small clock tower and ivy-covered wall on Betlemske
Street, which we passed on nearly every walk through town
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We recommend an early morning walk, when the lighting is warm and most tourists haven't ventured out yet
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A good beginning point is Wenceslas Square, anchored by
the National Museum and Saint Wenceslas astride his horse
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Wenceslas Square looks more like a broad boulevard
than a square. This is the heart of New Town (Nove Mesto).
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Walking along the boulevard, you'll pass many lovely Art Nouveau buildings
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Pop inside Lucerna Palace shopping center to see this parody statue of King Wenceslas
riding an upside-down horse, as well as the 1940s Tesla Radio stained glass window
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The Powder Tower (left) is one of the original city gates, marking the divide between Old
Town and New Town. The Franciscan Garden (right) is a pleasant 14th century garden.
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Wandering Old Town Square (Staromestské námestí)
is an absolute pleasure both day and night
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Approaching Old Town Square, you can see Tyn Church rising up ahead of you.
To the left is a partial view of the Clock Tower with its famous Astronomical Clock.
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A bride in her horse-drawn carriage poses for photos on the main square (talk about magical!)
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The elegant Archbishop's Palace stands just outside the gates
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By far the most dramatic building in the castle grounds is St. Vitus Cathedral
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St. Vitus Cathedral as seen from another angle
is quite the amazing sight first thing in the morning
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Royal emblems decorate a ceiling inside the Old Royal Palace
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Golden Lane consists of a series of “tiny houses” for the castle guard and other lowly
employs of the king -- seamstresses, goldsmiths, etc. Later on, the tiny houses became
popular in their own right and certain famous people like Franz Kafka lived here for a time.
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The entrance gates depict fighting giants
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At Melvin Cafe (near the castle) we had the most delicious fluffy mushroom omelet of our lives
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Desserts tempt you at every turn in Prague
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The castle entrance is visible straight ahead
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Above the houses is a surprisingly good exhibition of knights’
armor and weaponry, from chain mail to full suits of armor
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Wandering the castle grounds is free, but you'll need a ticket to go inside the buildings.
A Basic Circuit ticket (~$12.50 as of 2023) allows entry to St. Vitus Cathedral,
St. George's Basilica (shown above), the Old Royal Palace, and Golden Lane.
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St. George's Basilica is the oldest surviving church building within Prague Castle. The
Romanesque church was founded in 920 and is dedicated to St. George, slayer of dragons.
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The Old Royal Palace is surprisingly plain inside but contains some interesting history. On the
second floor is a spot where two governors and a scribe were defenestrated (thrown out a window),
resulting in the Thirty-Years War (1618-1648). Miraculously, all three survived despite the high fall.
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This 14th century cathedral is the most important temple in Prague. It took some
525 years to complete and was the coronation site for Czech kings and queens.
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The stained glass is stunning
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Also famous is St. Wenceslas Chapel within the cathedral, which depicts idealized scenes of his life
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Near the western end of the bridge, a stairway leads
down to the Lennon Wall, a 1980s tribute to John Lennon
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Statues line both sides of the bridge
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This church with its criss-crossing
spires definitely catches the eye
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On our return journey, we caught sight of these dramatic horses atop Prague National Theater
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Flower displays are another summertime pleasure
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Or there's vegetarian restaurant Lehka Hlava for healthier options
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Shopping & Food & Friends
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(Tourists often line both sides of the bridge too!)
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The view from the bridge is worth a long pause to appreciate
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We love the fact that nearly everyone who passes
by here also takes the time to pet the dog! We did!
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Cobblestones are commonplace in Old Town and
the Mala Strana -- part of the charm of Old Prague
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A high cabinet contains old historical books
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From the Mala Strana, the Old Castle Stairs lead
up, up, up to Prague Castle itself (Pražský hrad)
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Prague Castle is definitely worth your time when you come to Prague
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