Where We Be
The original House of the Blackheads was erected back in the
1300s, so way too early for Art Nouveau -- more like Art Ancien
Riga, Latvia
We didn't know much about Riga beforehand,
so we were pleasantly surprised to discover
just how much beautiful architecture is here. It
turns out Riga is the Art Nouveau capital of the
world. More than a third of its buildings -- over
800 overall -- feature this style. As we soon
learned, Art Nouveau (1890-1910) is different
than Art Deco (1920s-30s). In a nutshell, if it's
highly ornamented with natural themes (vines,
flowers, insect wings) and images of the female
form, then it's probably Art Nouveau. Latvians
have even chosen a “Miss Riga” from all the
female sculptures adorning their city.

It's hard to put your camera down here. There's
just so much beautiful detail in the architecture
everywhere you look. Riga's historic center is
vibrant, walkable, and brimming with beauty. A
good place to start is Town Hall Square, the epi-
center of Old Town. Here you'll find the House
of the Blackheads, Riga's most iconic landmark
(shown left). Founded by merchants in the 13th
century, it's a mix of red bricks and frilly white
“icing.” It's also famous as the site of the
world's first decorated Christmas tree (1510).
Changing of the guard in front of the Freedom Monument -- very formal and precise
Just beyond the park is the Nativity of Christ Orthodox
Cathedral, a gorgeous neo-Byzantine building from 1876
The park's Esplanade also hosts art events -- like this
cool collection of art from the Prado Museum in Madrid
Near the Freedom Monument is Bastejkalna Park, spanning both sides of the canal running through town
The park is home to some fun works of art, including this snail
carrying the world on its back and this colorful "bird house tree"
Right around the corner, on Elizabetes Street, is Building 10a, considered
an Art Nouveau masterpiece by “Riga’s Gaudi,” Mikhail Eisenstein
Its crown features elongated faces staring out pensively from above
The faces seem to be pondering something deep, known only to them
At the Art Nouveau Museum on Albert Street (€9 pp),
Robin plays dress-up for a period-piece photo shoot
The museum is a time capsule of sorts -- an Art Nouveau apartment
built in 1903 by the famous Latvian architect Konstantīns Pēkšēns
The apartment contains much of its original furniture and décor
The highlight of the museum is the breathtaking spiral
staircase -- worth the price of admission all by itself
Other faces are frozen in fear or despair -- expressions
rarely if ever seen except in Art Nouveau architecture
Old Town is a photographer's paradise with its abundance of fine architecture
"Our block" during our three-day stay in Riga
Roland, nephew of Charlemagne, stands guard in front of House of the
Blackheads, which was rebuilt after having been destroyed in World War II
St. Maurice, patron saint of the Blackheads
(a brotherhood of bachelor merchants)
Only in the early morning hours do you find the streets this empty
Dinner at Neiburgs isn't half-bad either
Riga Cathedral -- the largest medieval church in the Baltic
states -- is one of the city's most recognizable landmarks
Riga Beer Bikes -- one way to get your exercise!
The “Three Brothers” at Mazā Pils are the oldest houses in Riga (late 15th century)
Even our Neiburgs Hotel boasts a memorably patrician face atop its entryway
Neiburgs puts out quite the spread at breakfast each morning (hot dishes are out of frame to the right)
Beside the church is a playground with animal statues, including this pangolin
The female form is one of the most distinctive aspects of Art Nouveau architecture
Female faces are also prevalent
The Swedish Gate is Riga's only surviving city gate. The
apartment above it was once home to the city’s executioner.
Three musicians record a video at the gate while sitting atop oversized gold roosters!
Wonderful buildings -- and statues on buildings -- appear around every
corner. No wonder the historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The "Cat House" sports two cats atop its turrets
(their butts once faced towards a guild hall due to a grudge!)
East of Old Town is where you'll find the highest concentration of Art Nouveau buildings
in the world. On the way there, you'll pass the Latvian National Opera House (above left).
You'll also pass the striking Freedom Monument, which honors
soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence (1918-1920)
Statue commemorating fallen
Latvian riflemen during WWI
Virgin Mary with baby -- another artwork
adorning House of the Blackheads
Rosena Street, narrowest street in Riga
Of the 800-plus Art Nouveau buildings in Riga, the biggest
concentration is east of Old Town, most notably on Albert Street
Take your time exploring here, as there are lots of
small details to appreciate once you start looking
The exuberance and whimsy of some
of the statues will make you smile
Asparagus ravioli with burnt butter sauce and aged cheese